AHAs & BHAs whats the difference? What do they do?

We love our skincare products, but there are so many active ingredients, and reading there’s an acid in the ingredients can scare people, because we don’t always understand what they do.

So we will fill you in on a selection of acids used in skincare, also known as chemical exfoliants. We are talking about alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), this includes but not limited to glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acid.

But why do we use it?

What are they?

And what is the difference?

Great questions!!

We use both alpha and beta hydroxy acids because they exfoliate the skin by gently removing dead skin cells and unclogging pores. Using AHAs and BHAs can also lead to improvements in the evening out of skin pigmentation, smoother texture, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory properties and anti-aging benefits.

So what is the difference?

The two main AHAs are glycolic and lactic acids. These AHAs are water soluble. Glycolic is often obtained from fruits and sugar cane whilst lactic acid is derived from lactose in milk. Being water soluble it stays closer to the surface of the skin. When AHAs are applied topically, AHAs break up the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface. Once those bonds are weakened, these redundant cells slough off the surface to reveal fresher and brighter skin. Other results you can expect from AHAs include fading of sunspots, mild
acne scars, other types of hyperpigmentation, improvement of texture and clogged pores. It is also a great for collagen production and assisting with the reduction of lines and wrinkles. AHAs also help to treat mild acne by helping to break up the plugs in clogged pores. These acids are also known to be gentler for a dry or a sensitive skin type.

When we think about BHAs we think about salicylic acid, which is derived from the bark of a willow tree. But unlike AHAs, BHAs are oil-soluble which means it works in the deeper layers of skin. This would have to be one of your best tools against fighting acne, (especially whiteheads/blackheads) but can also control cystic acne and improve the appearance of pores. It is so frustrating to look in the mirror and notice a pimple appearing right before a special event. An effective way to combat this new unwelcome addition is by
using a product with salicylic acid, spot treat the breakout, and in the morning, it has worked some magic. That pimple is now dried up and looks much less noticeable. But how did that happen? Well BHAs main benefits include being able to penetrate thru the layers of skin so deeply that the acid part of the
molecule can dissolve some of the intracellular glue that holds skin cells together. From there
it works deep inside your pores to target oil glands and decrease oil secretion resulting in unclogging of congested pores, it also has an anti-bacterial factor.

These types of chemical exfoliant requires caution for a sensitive or dehydrated skin. Chemical exfoliants are often more effective than physical exfoliants for sensitive skin because they do not require scrubbing,
which can be very abrasive and irritating. Nevertheless, if you are planning to introduce products carrying these ingredients, be sure to introduce them slowly and your skin may gradually build up a tolerance to AHAs and BHAs. If you experience any redness or irritation, decrease your frequency of use, and always remember to use a SPF of 30+ or greater.

Please use caution and seek professional advice with certain types of medications and stop using if pregnant.

To find out what would work best for you, be sure to speak with one of our therapists on your next appointment!

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