Vitamin A/Retinol/ Retinoids in skincare

What are Retinoids?

Retinoids
is a term used to describe the family of Vitamin A. Retinol is a Vitamin A derivative and it plays an important role in maintaining a healthy skin. It is best known for its superstar qualities that assist us to change and improve  our skin at a cellular level resulting in a firmer radiant skin. Products containing Vitamin A were originally used to treat acne by helping to normalise oil production. However, in time it was discovered it could effectively smooth lines and wrinkles. Today it is used in abundance of anti-aging products and there are different strengths of retinoids used in skincare, the 5 most common are as follows.

1.  Retinyl palmitate – is a entry level retinol and is a great introduction for your skin to a retinol.
Great to use if you have a sensitive or extra dry skin.

2.  Retinaldehyde – has a slightly higher potency than retinol palmitate. It gives you a close effect to
retinoic acid as there is only 1 conversion step you skin must achieve

3.  Retinol- is the strongest potency you will find in non-prescription skincare. Usually measured
between a 0.25% to a 1%

4.  Retin A – is also known by the name Tretinoin, which is another name for retinoic acid. Because it is already a form of retinoic acid it does not require to be broken down by enzymes in your skin, instead
it can be optimized straight away. Retin A products are around 100 times stronger than the common over the
counter retinol serum and creams.

5.  Tazarotene – Is known to be the most powerful of the retinoid family. It is extremely effective at
treating acne and psoriasis but is commonly irritating and drying to skin.

As mentioned above the one type of retinoid that skin can process instantly, and it is called retinoic
acid. All other retinoids must be converted by our skin enzymes so our skin can reap the benefits. This can be a one step process for a lower level retinol and in a higher potency retinol, our skin will need to perform a two-step conversion or more. Conversion of our retinols we provide in our medi-spa are as follows,

first step takes place when our enzymes in our skin convert the retinol into retinaldehyde and then a further
conversion takes place to turn it into retinoic acid. This two-step process allows the retinoic acid to bind to
the cell receptors.

What does it do for our skin?

Vitamin A in the form of retinoids will visibly change your skin by lighting a brightening pigmentation by optimising cell turn over. This allows the shedding of rough and pigmentated keratinised cells, making way for newer and healthy cells that are lighter and more even in tone. Vitamin A is a well known tyrosinase inhibitor. (Tyrosinase is an enzyme within our skin that plays an important role is producing melanin).

Vitamin A also dramatically improves problematic skin by controlling oil production, leaving skin feeling clearer and balanced. It also helps prevent breakouts, assists the healing process, reduced pore size and supports the skins immune system.

Vitamin A is also a master at combating anti-aging. It targets our fibroblasts which are responsible for collagen in the dermis. This action delivers a firmer brighter and stronger skin. Thing of your retinol as doing a task and turning on the cells in charge of making new collagen, filling in fine lines below the skins surface so skin looks smoother. Vitamin A slows down the natural aging process and breakdown of your collagen and elastin.

This sounds amazing right? But how can this Vitamin do all of this?

Vitamin A is so essential to our skin that the cell membrane of our skin cells(keratinocytes) has Vitamin A receptors. Receptors are special structures built into every cell membrane which detects certain key ingredients and give the express entry into the cell. As soon as it detects Vitamin A it opens a channel
directly thru the cell membrane like an expressway.

Are there negative effects?

Retinol is a powerful molecule that can cause dryness, flaking, redness and feel irritating to our skin. Some sensitive skins or skins that have a condition like rosacea may find that they cannot tolerate such products.

However, these potential side effects can be minimised or avoided by introduction retinol into your skin the right way. It is so important to invest in a quality well formulated and stable retinol, no matter what strength. It is important to slowly build up a tolerance by using retinol just once or twice a week and increase usage over a period, as instructed by your skincare professional. Retinol is an evening routine product as Vitamin A deactivates in sunlight.Please avoid use if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.

Who should use it?

Pretty much everybody is going to benefit from a retinol if you are over the age of30! Whilst there is no exact age to start retinol, it is a good idea to introduce some form of retinol into your routine around your mid to late
twenties. Especially is you already suffer from pigmentation, cystic acne or wrinkles. A gentle entry level is a retinyl palmitate. Our skin does start showing signs of aging around just 25 years of age as our collagen and elastin start to decline. Natural cell turn over and regeneration starts to decline as well. Always remember prevention is key and always easier that trying to reverse. Speak with one of our therapist about adding Vitamin A into your routine.

Products available in salon

Germaine deCapuccini Retinage Filler

Ocosmedics Retinoic Oil

Ocosmedics Potent Retinol Serum

Ocosmedics Retinol Concentrate